Lisa and I took a short break in Chiang Mai, escaping the hustle and bustle of city life for a few restful days in the mountains of Mae Raem. Surrounded by lush greenery and fresh air, it was exactly the kind of slowdown we were looking for. Chiang Mai is particularly lovely at this time of year (Nov-Dec), with temperatures in the low to mid-twenties. More than once, we found ourselves remarking that it genuinely felt like autumn in a temperate country.

We went with a very deliberate plan – to have no plans at all. No fixed itineraries, no must-eat lists, just letting the days unfold as they pleased. Our catchphrase was “No Time, No Target.” We woke when we woke, slept when we slept, and ate when we were hungry. Not allowing time to become a tyrant was liberating, and so was not having anything we had to do. Of course, being who we are, food still managed to find its way onto the agenda! We ended up visiting a handful of cafés and restaurants that were memorable enough to deserve a mention.

Mae Ream (Rim)

Just a short drive northwest of Chiang Mai city, Mae Raem feels like a different world altogether. Cooler, greener and wonderfully unhurried, it’s a mountain area where mornings are misty, the air is fresh, and time seems to slow down on its own.

We checked in at the Panviman Spa Resort Hotel, set amidst lush greenery and blessed with a lovely spa that immediately set the tone for the stay. The only thing to note is that the resort is built along a steep hillside. So getting up to the rooms can be quite a trek. We quickly became very familiar with calling for the buggy.

Along the winding road up to Mae Raem, we ...